La Crêperie Bretonne

We've been going for years now. It's a chain i've seen in the south of France (Colliure anyway) and they do the best salad in town (as well as crêpes and galettes). We have the salad with fresh goat's cheese, serrano ham, apple and grapes with a great mustard vinagrette. Then we have a savoury crêpe each and on a good night we might fit a sweet one too. Manel always has a 'healthy' virtual vegetarian option and i go for the 'English breakfast' option but in French obviously. By this time we're probably quite tipsy and don't mind too much that we're just not going to digest before bed! We're middle aged you know but i haven't heard any teeenagers complaining here! You can crayon on the table cloths and admire the kitchen-in-a-bus decor. It's not at all expensive, the house red is absolutely fine and the staff have been unfailingly friendly and helpful. You can have cider if you prefer. It's a very relaxed place but you're not kept waiting around. It's good for lunch too. It's in the old town, as you walk towards the cathedral.



C/ Cort Reial, 14
17004 Girona
972 218 120



Mon Oncle Bar-Restaurant


I was running late. It was 8.45pm and i was due to pick Manel up from work at 9 at the other end of town.The car was parked at the highest point of Girona above the university, the pizza takeaway (Dolce Vita, Plaça Independencia) was a good 10 minute walk from where i was in the old town. So, 'just to see', i asked the young waitress in 'Mon Oncle' if they had any takeaway food. Thinking on her feet, she suggested some Calamares a la Andaluza (much better than 'a la Romana') and her boss, who was trying to have a bowl of appetizing pasta, jumped up and found some plastic takeaway tubs. She said '7 minutes' and left me to read the paper. She handed it to me with delicious bread, threw in some lemon and napkins and i left to hike the 10 minutes uphill. I arrived late, but the calamars were absolutely delicious - tender calamar, crunchy coating, well salted, plenty of it and still warm. Another day, we won't rush it, because i anticipate good tapas and salads here, in a very 'tranqui' and attractive bar-cum-informal restaurant, even with soft lighting (!) coupled with a very on-the-ball and extremely pleasant staff. Like it!

This is the address: c/Mercaders, 13
Tel: 34 972 20 63 14

It's in a parallel road to the Rambla, on your right as you approach from Plaça Catalunya. There's a big square which turns into a terrace in summer.
PS Recently it's been very slow, so maybe don't bother until they get the message....

Tripadvisor review for Gironalet Apartment


The apartment is tastefully decorated to the highest standards and is immaculately clean and tidy. Very thoughtfully equipped and a great place to relax after a hard day enjoying Girona. The apartment is very central and a perfect base to explore. There is loads of space and its ideal for smaller groups or a family or a bunch of friends (September 2012) (uk)

Airbnb Review Gironalet Apartment


This is what I call value for money, and…. with a very charming host Liza, who has loads of information as per request! We needed accommodation for 4 and this apartment offered us the privacy we were looking for: A separate bedroom for each of us, a kitchen to prepare a light meal, a dining room and a large balcony to have a drink and chill out. Gerona historic centre is only 5 minutes walk. Wi-Fi is available in the pub in the street, and groceries are available around the corner. For those whose Spanish is about the same as mine: Liza is fluent in English as well. Next time we visit Gerona we will be back!
(Holland) (November 2012)

Girona Jewish Quarter Route

 Here i wanted to mention a few things to look out for, to make your visit more rewarding. A visit to the Museum of Jewish life, established on the site of the 3rd medieval synagogue of the city, is an integral part of the route. I haven't finished yet but i'll post this for starters...i hope you like my picture, cos it took forever, even if it's a little grubby! It's a sort of mixture of the 'Call' now and in 1492, when the Jews of Spain were expelled and owe's rather a lot to Señor Alberch and Fugueras, as i am sure you will have noticed.
The amazing technicolour diagram



The route map
Just bear in mind that when you get to Torre Gironella (if you do that bit), you don't need to retrace your steps. There are steps down to the university car park and you can cut straight down the hill to Plaça Sant Domenec and a nice cafe...then all the way down the Pujada de Sant Domenec steps and you're home and dry. 

The route
Start at the intersection of c/ Claveria and c/ Cundaro (Pujada del Catedral), which can be reached from Plaça dels Apostols, outside the south side door of the cathedral. Plaça dels Apostols is where the first synagogue of Girona is supposed to have been sited, documented in 988. 
C/Claveria used to be called c/ de la Ruca  which meant 'oven of the church' (catholic) and was where the medieval cathedral bakery was located. From here go down to c/ Lluis Batlle and c/ Sant Llorenç. 

From c/ Sant Llorenç, turn right up to c/ de la Força, Escales de la Pera and Plaça del Catedral. In the 15th century, c/ de la Força was called c/ Sant Llorenç and was the main road of the 'Call'.  It was also the roman 'via augusta' and cardo maximus of the original roman settlement of Gerunda. The 2nd synagogue, in the 14th century, was situated at number 21, c/ de la Força. Confusingly, the present day c/ Sant Llorenç used to be called c/ de la Sinagoga and ended in a 2nd Jewish gate to the East when the Call was closed off. When you reach Pujada de la Pera, don't mis the Subirach sculpture showing the floor plan of the cathedral and the workers and tools involved. I love this and you can compare it to his work on the Sagrada Familia Façade, in stone rather than metal. 


Continuing north up c/ de la Força you reach a tiny square on the left called Plaçeta de l'institut Vell. There is the entrance to the History of Girona museum and if you search the other doors you will find a mezuzah or Jewish prayer scroll slit. At the top of c/ de la Força would have been the northern entrance gate to the Call. The square in front of the cathedral steps, apart from being the old roman forum, was the market place for jews and non jews alike. From here was the route for the Jews to take to bury their dead on the -Montjuic mountain, literally 'Jewish mountain'.
You eventually arrive at Torre Gironella following the Passeig Arqueologic. This was the site of Jewish traumas in 1391 when the tower and castle became a refuge from violence for 17 weeks.
From the tower back to the Call, go via the Pujada dels Alemanys, Sant Domenec, C/ de les Escola Pies and c/ Oliva i Prat. This comes out at the Plaçeta del Correu Vell where in the 14th century there had been a 3rd Jewish gate.
Finish your route in the Jewish Museum on c/ de la Força.




Girona Barcelona Trains

The train station is 2 minutes walk from the apartment. There are 3 different trains to Barcelona, which take 1 hour 20, 1 hour 33 or 1 hour 6 minutes. For the fastest train you pay 20€ or so for a single ticket, double the price of the next fastest. The cheapest and slowest train costs 7€ something for a single ticket. There is quite a regular service and it's very comfortable. Get off at Sants or Passeig de Gracia depending on your destination.

http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/index.html

Roman Barcino


You can find these elements of Roman Barcelona at these points in the city. The city was founded around 15 BC.


Via Sepulcral - Plaça de la Vila de Madrid

Aqueducts - Carrer de Duran i Bas and Plaça Nova
The arches of one of the aqueducts are integrated into the walls of a 19th century building. Water was transported from the river Besos and the Collserola Serra and from wells, cisterns and 2 aqueducts.

North West Gate - Plaça Nova
The towers form part of the Bishop's palace now and the Deacon's house.The current name is Portal del Bisbe, it was the Praetorian Gate. In the 4th century, all 4 gates had 3 openings, the large central one for vehicles and the side smaller arches for pedestrians. Only the 2 decumanus gates still exist. The cardus gates, pulled down, were in the 'call' or jewish quarter and in Plaça de l'Angel. 

Domus - Carrer de la Fruita and Sant Honorat
This is 4th centry

Temple and Forum - Carrer del Paradís
The temple was dedicated to Augustus, placed at the highest point of the city, in the forum,which was to be found somewhere under or near Plaça Sant Jaume (or possibly Plaça Sant Miquel nearby - they can't excavate so they don't know, as i understand it). The 4 columns and what's left of the temple can be found at the above address.

Workshops and factories - Plaça del Rei
In the musuem here,there are the remains of a laundry (fullonica), a dye-works (tinctoria), a garum factory (cetaria) and cellars.

North East wall - Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran
South East wall - Carrer del Sotstinent Navarro
The first century BC foundational wall had a few towers and a defensive moat. The second wall, built in the 4th century was placed in front of the old wall, greatly thickening it and 76 towers were added. The towers were cylindrical on either side of the gates but mostly square. There was a moat at least along the Avenguda de la catedral of 6 metres depth.

The Sea Gate - Carrer del Regomir
What can be seen is one of the smaller pedestrian entrances. It is thought there might have been a castellum here.

This is the route to follow the Roman walls:
Plaça Nova, Avinguda de la Catedral, Carrer de la Tapineria, Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran and Plaça de l'Àngel, Carrer del Sotstinent Navarro, Plaça dels Traginers, Carrer del Correu Vell, Carrer del Regomir, Carrer d'en Gignàs, Carrer d'Avinyó, Carrer dels Banys Nous and Carrer de la Palla. A large part of the structure disappeared during the 19th century (such as Palau Reial Menor, Convent de l'Ensenyança, Plaça de l'Àngel, Plaça del Regomir) though in some cases, like Pla de la Seu, the destruction was prior to this.
Taken from this recommended website:

Barcelona Children's Day Out




In the Old Port area at the bottom of the Rambla, there is the Aquarium, complete with sharks and giant rodents (and i mean giant) and the Imax 3D cinema complex, surrounded by bars, fast food restaurants and shops. All by the sunny sea, so you can sit and rest your feet in between bouts. Even if it's not sunny, which let's face it, would be difficult. 'They' will be tired out just walking down the Rambla looking at all the street entertainers, so mission accomplished!
http://www.imaxportvell.com/ingles/imax.html

http://www.aquariumbcn.com/AQUARIUM/index.php?wlang=en

If you've got any money or time left, there is the zoo in the Ciutadella park. I've never been but my husband said he used to force his parents to go every single time they went to Barcelona on a day out.
http://www.zoobarcelona.cat/en/home/

Moving inland you've got the amusement park of Tibidabo which can be reached by cable car and tram or bus. After that, you might not need to go on any more rides, and you'll have seen most of Barcelona from a bird's eye view.
http://www.tibidabo.cat/en/info/com-arribar-transport-public

Last but by no means least, and you'll probably need another day, is the CosmoCaixa Science Museum - a really wonderful touchy-feely, sticky hands-on museum, highly recommended. A very good rainy day destination. Unfortunately the website is absolute rubbish in English. Completely impossible to find the information you want, typical of a bank. Suffice to say it costs 3€, free on the first Sunday of the month, closed Mondays. Opens at 10am til 8pm. Open on holidays and holiday Mondays. Not Christmas day or New Year's Day. Address is C/ Isaac Newton, 26.
http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es/nuestroscentros/cosmocaixabarcelona/infoservicios_es.html

The Chocolate Museum. Well, we enjoyed it! 
http://www.museuxocolata.cat/?lang=enHere is a link for a Chocolate Tour of 2 hours run by the tourist office and it is a walk around the gothic quarter.
http://bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com/ECV2TBCN/Front/BCNShop/Sales/Disponibilitat-Producte/_vf-SMlY1yItM-U_l9RgLJgsyU0uRJi84RqTVW4Qu8jlwlsbljT_nJMKtbrFTKhdgfLI1AsrLkWTMA-NoR99VR5sKtu1cV9yVaEIyon7WyN4cvKkgoJpmRJ9VUx9dzhkP
This is a Segway tour but i am not sure what the minimum age is for children.....i am obviously not responsible parent material....but could be fun?!
http://bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com/Barcelona-Segway-Tour/_vf-SMlY1yIuKQTV1aq49kDeqxRqjploriWCdo8IR0jKVDOZqQnrzvcItaEElOLAI

(I think that's enough children's stuff - who's going to pay for all this? ed.)

Barcelona's Jewish Quarter ('El Call')

Here is historical information about the Jewish quarter, street by street
http://www.bcn.cat/museuhistoriaciutat/docs/BarcelonaJewishQuarter.pdf

This is the route through the Jewish Quarter, in English
http://www.bcn.cat/museuhistoriaciutat/docs/Triptic_Call_ENG.pdf
It doesn't take very long and it's nice to wander with an objective if those two things are compatible.

The 'Interpretation Centre' or very small museum of the Jewish Quarter, is in my experience either closed or without any illuminating information in English. This might have changed recently as i admit having given up going and there is certainly more information on the net than ever before. I got completely fed up with the archeologist's drawings of what they'd found, which were usually upside down when compared to the ground plan or in some way or other incomprehensible to the lay person. Especially the non-catalan lay person, who doesn't lunch for 3 hours.... It's here anyway - Placeta de Manuel Ribé. 08002 Barcelona
The History of the City Museum is fantastic however.

If the Jewish Quarters of the region are of interest to you, don't neglect to visit the Girona 'Call' and the 'Call' of Besalu, which has a very rare medieval Mikvé or Jewish bath, one of only 2 in Europe i believe. It was found by accident in the 60's and is in excellent condition.

Apartment Gironalet photos














Girona Medieval Walls Walk



These walls are mainly 14th century, dating from 1362 when King Pere III, the Ceremonious, ordered them to be built to include the new neighbourhoods or 'burgs', which had developed around the old nucleus. They cover the right side of the Onyar river. In the 17th century Vauban-designed fortifications were added to the wall. You might start in Plaça de Sant Feliu/Felix. Looking over from the bridge, on your left you can see some houses running parallel to the river. Find Carrer de la Barca, where the open arch is. This was the gate from where the boat to Sant Gregori left. It was built on the old wall between 1367 and 1380. The Sunset jazz club is just here, by the way, for future reference.... 
Anyway, i digress. Like detectives, you now have to find the so-called França Gate, of which nothing is left but i'll give you a clue - walk to Plaça de Sant Pere, then continue along the road going towards Pedret and away from Girona (you'll know you're right when you reach a railway bridge - at this point you've come too far. If you turn round, on the left you will see clearly the wall extending off to your left and some steps up. This is where you're headed and the França Gate used to span over the middle of what is now the road, more or less where the zebra crossing is. It was one of the main entrances to the city in the middle ages. 
Once up on the wall, the views are magnificent, extending to the distance mountains with the Devesa wood in front and the rest of the old town in the foreground. You look down first on the Jardins de l'Angel (you can go down and wander around them) and eventually on more gardens, the John Lennon Gardens (again you can wander around here and rejoin the wall to continue).  quite a while dawdling and taking photos, you'll come out at Sant Pere Galligants Romanesque church on the Sant Daniel Valley road, and from here you are in spitting distance of a couple of cafes for a breather...Because it continues.... 
Cross the river from the church and follow the 'Archeological Walk', where you will almost certainly be tempted down other paths. However, to complete the medieval wall circuit, things get complicated.This photo shows an unrecognisable fortified Sant Pere Galligants church, made into part of the defensive wall. 

After a break then, i suggest starting at Sobreportes Gate, on the outside looking in as it were, to the Cathedral square, and following the wall to your left (away from Sant Feliu/Felix Church). This is originally roman but has the reinforced medieval wall and towers on top. Follow then the Passeig Archeologic to its' end, hopefully arriving at Plaça Catalunya. You might have to start from Plaça Catalunya to do this part of the wall because it has been known for the gate at the highest point of the wall (near Torre Gironella), to be locked, so everyone has to traipse back down again in single file! It's a bit of true local experience however!

You're my favourites! Gironalet apartment

Dear Lisa, Many thanks for your welcome. Apartment was perfect and we spent a marvelous moment together during this stay. Apartment warm and beautiful. Comfort and facilities, all accesses near the city center have permitted to spend a very good and exciting moment in Girona where we'll surely come back.
We've prefered take off all clothes and put them at the same place to make your work easier after our departure. we maintined the state of apartment (without 'fiestas') as it was ours apartment!
So we hope you'll be enjoyed. Thankyou all students. See you soon 
(Tourism Students, France) (November 2012) 

Girona Cathedral

 This is the route you will follow with your audioguide if you want and is a very enjoyable visit. The diagram is from the leaflet you'll be given at the door. 5€ the last time i looked, well worth it. I'll add more information soon...!

Sushimore


sushi near home! Finally! And about time too. Don't bother with Plaça Independencia (not very authentic last time we went) - they'll deliver too. Not that a 5 minute walk would deter. The yakitori got a catalan thumbs up but wasn't very authentic in my book. They came with rice and bulked out the (expensive) maki, which were however great. 


http://www.sushimore.com/espacios-sushimore/girona

No! That's a joke, sorry, i couldn't resist....

October review Gironalet Apartment

Thankyou Liza. We had a great time! (Canada) (October 2012)

Medieval Villages near Figueres Vilabertran, Peralada, Castelló d'Empuries

This route is extremely pleasant by bicycle, see the google map reference below and can be combined with Figueres, lunch - there are lots of good restaurants in this area, or wine tasting in Garrigüella, Vilajüiga, or another Emporda bodega. Or a quick dip in the sea and a fish supper...For more spritely types, Empuria Brava is the place for 'night life' (i don't remember what that is exactly, but discos are involved).

Emporda Wine links:

information about the wines       http://www.doemporda.cat/en/wineries.html
booking guided visits to bodegas
http://www.rutasdevinosemporda.es/visitas-bodegas-emporda-1-0.html
one to start with                  http://www.espeltviticultors.com/

Vilabertran Monastery
Information about this site before arriving is a closely guarded secret, but once you are in situ, a useful leaflet will find its way into your hands - in English, if there are any left...
There is also a little walk around the village - the leaflet in catalan can be downloaded - here it is to give you an idea. Presumably it is available in English once you've paid up!
http://www.mhcat.net/content/download/9382/73194/file/Vilabertran%2C+itineraris.pdf
The point is that it is a very pleasant visit on your route.




This is Dalí's Vilabertran Lake (Llac de Vilabertran) and belltower.


for the history and architectural details of the complex go to this link http://www.vilabertran.com/vb.php?ss=328424156d2f1554de808bfcc6cb6270&ap=a03s01p01
Last admission 30 minutes before closing time.From 1 September to 30 Juny: from Thursday from Saturday: from 10 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. and from 3 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.Sundays and local holidays: from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.July and August from Tuesday to Sunday: from 10 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. and from 3 p.m. to 6.30 p.m.Closed on Mondays except public holidays, 25 and 26 December and 1 and 6 January.
Standard: €3,00 Concession: €2,00 Tuesdays and local public holidays, free of charge for all.


C/ Abadia, 4
17760 Vilabertran (Alt Empordà)
Tel.: 972508787
e-mail: vilabertran.cultura@gencat.cat 
This link has a nice introduction to the monastery, in English.

http://capcreus.com/vilabertran/vilabertran_uk.htm
Peralada
It is just 7 km from Figueres and 40 km from Girona. Here is a useful link for more information about the medieval village: 
http://capcreus.com/peralada/peralada_uk.htm
About 500 AC, a group from the Iberian tribe of indiketes built what would be the first walled village of Peralada.Transformed into the centre of a country from the Carolingian Empire in the 9th Century, Peralada became one of the main capitals of l'Empordà throughout the Medieval Age. From this bright period there are still many buildings and monuments left which make the delights of the visitor who discovers the secrets of a millennial village.
Still, most people only ever see Peralada on a warm summer's evening, dressed to the nine's en route to a concert in the castle grounds during the annual festival. And some don't go to the concert but stay in the casino or the al fresco dining terrace! The village is well worth seeing however, during the day, combined with other medieval villages.
   
Castle Museum of Peralada - here is what they say about themselves:
In Peralada the visitor has the opportunity to visit one of the most spectacular, private collections of Catalonia; the Castle's Museum, which is located inside the antique Carme's convent.The cloister and the Gothic church are two of the convent's original dependencies that can be visited. A library with around 80.000 volumes and more than 1000 editions of El Quijote is another appeal of this visit, which follows with the Glass Museum, with on of the best and biggest collections of the world. And, eventually, the Wine's Museum, which was created in the 60's in the wine cellar where until that date Peralada's wines were produced. All the elements and objects exposed are from the wine's culture in any of its phases.
Timetable:From 1st July until 15th September. Guided visits every hour o'clock. Opened every day. From 16th September until 30th June. Opened every day save on Sundays and holiday's afternoons. On Mondays it is closed the whole day.
for the casino
http://www.casino-peralada.com/ing/index.asp
for wine
http://www.castilloperelada.com/en/
for the music and dance festival in summer - a wonderful experience, at night, outdoors.
http://www.festivalperalada.es/festivalperalada/programacion-2012/?lang=en

Castelló d'Empuries














Nice introduction link here: http://capcreus.com/castello/castello_uk.htm
Cycle route Vilabertran and Figueres villages
This is a route we did by road bike in April last year and thoroughly enjoyed - we were lucky with the wind! Highly recommended and you can extend or cut short as you feel like - just be careful to take a good map, as you wouldn't think you could get lost but believe me, you can!