Days out from Girona: Hostal de Sadernes

Rustic, real and recommended. Of course, you'll have to get to Sadernes first - aim for Tortellá / Olot from Girona and don't miss the medieval Llierca Bridge on the road from Montagut. Booking is best, as although it seems to be in the middle of nowhere, everyone knows a good thing when they see it.

I am biased because it was one of the first Catalan restaurants i went to on landing here 20 years ago. It was my introduction to allioli ('garlic mayonaise' - though there's no mayonaise in it) and garlic scrubbed tomato bread and arguably a good reason for staying in the country. It counters the common practice of talking at length in the library, which is a good reason for leaving it.

It's true there is the minimum of staff, but they're efficient, friendly and family. Basic traditional Catalan fare presented in a basic but beautiful way - that is to say, a ceramic pot with tomatoes, garlic cloves and bread with oil and salt on the table. Olives and wine. Soup arrives in a tureen. Not arty, just a picture. Take your time.